“It’s like standing on a line between strength and delicacy.” “This collection is the portrait of a sensitive yet bold Parisienne,” said Virginie Viard, Chanel’s creative director. Here are some highlights of Tuesday’s fall couture collections, including when The Associated Press caught up with French actress Clémence Poésy. They were artfully curated homages to the brand’s legacy, showcasing biographies of the legendary Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and postcards of actresses associated with the house, such as Vanessa Paradis, a modern incarnation of the Parisienne, who applauded from the front row. But upon closer examination, these weren’t ordinary stalls. Mimicking the famed bouquinistes, those charming bookstalls lining the river’s edge, Chanel erected its own renditions. With the Eiffel Tower in the distance, the well-heeled glitterati of the fashion world navigated the uneven terrain for an outdoor collection that celebrated the soul of Paris. But it’s the strapping tailoring and Gvasalia’s eye for difference that will build the VTMNTS congregation.PARIS (AP) - The cobblestoned banks of the Seine River served as the stage for Chanel’s latest haute couture collection. The new gen that Gvasalia wants to dress has made soft wear like that part of the 21st-century uniform it’s all but unavoidable. Some color-block sweats and a striped tracksuit round out the collection. “It’s insane high quality, very rare,” Gvasalia said.
“When people have no expectations and when it’s good, the reaction is overwhelming.” That collection had a pair of silver looks, a theme which he expanded on here, cutting wardrobe staples like jeans and snap-front shirts and statement pieces including hot pants and thigh-grazing cuissards in reflective silver leather. He reports that the runway show in March was a success with buyers, with orders from more than 100 stores. Just one VTMNTS trench, topcoat, or button-down isn’t enough-better buy two. Gvasalia likes the exaggerated proportions of those layers and the enthusiasm that those proportions imply. He pointed out that there were just two abbreviated puffer jackets on the fall runway, but they were popular enough with buyers-and with the models showing up for this season’s casting-that he decided that the VTMNTS team was on to something and made them a bigger part of the new offering.Īnother motif was the doubling of garments-two cropped bombers, two sleeveless tailored jackets with strong padded shoulders, a doubled waistband here, logo briefs peeking out from the top of another waistband there. Meaning that in the runway video, all genders wear jackets and shirts cropped below the chest, exposing muscled midriffs, and denim hot pants are equal opportunity too. It’s about knowing who you are, standing for your beliefs.” “The main message of the collection is gender equality.
“We’re in a church of the future, where you belong simply by being your true self,” Gvasalia said. The models are still moving at quite a clip, but the French department store has been replaced by a new Swiss construction whose vaulted ceiling looks almost like a cathedral. Now, Guram Gvasalia and team are back for another round. Models from all points on the gender spectrum stormed the runway in an emptied-out Monoprix at speed, some with makeup meant to look like bruises and cuts. VTMNTS had its IRL debut in Paris back in March.
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